t)U 623 

G35 
1900a 
lopy 1 



PUPIL'S EDITION. 

IV NOVEMBER., 1900 

*. Subscription $1.50 per Year 



No. 5 





THE/ 

PLAN BOOK 




A LITTLE JOURNEY 

TO 

HAWAII 



MARIAN M. GEORGE. Editor. ^ ^ 
v< a. FLANAGAN CO., Publishers. 



Issued Monthly, except July svnd August 

V V Entered In ChJe«.«o Post Office a* Seoond-ClM. M.ll V V 



ANNOUNCEMENT. 



"Hawaii" is the third of a series of Plan Book Jour- 
neys, which will embrace a great many countries of great 
anH growing interest to teachers and pupils. All countries may 
ultimately be included. 

The first numbers in the series will be devoted to our 
new possessions, and to those countries which the late wars 
have brought to the attention of the public, and made centers 
of interest. 

The work is p anned and prepared for both teachers and 
pupils. The LiTTivE Journeys for the pupils are to be used as 
reference books in connection with the study of a country, or 
as supplementary readers for the Intermediate and Gram- 
mar grade*. 

The Teachers' Edition contains the same reading matter, 
with additional paj;es of suggestions to teachers for conducting 
these journeys abr- ad ; Programs fr r Afternoons and Evenings 
Abroad ; Music ; Recitations, and other material for these enter- 
tainments. 

These books a r e intended for teachers who find it difficult 
to obtain information in regard to the countries visited. 

It is h >ped that each volume will be specially helpful to 
those t* achers whose books of travel are few, and opportunities 
for travel limited. 

To those teachers who wish to interest their pupils in geog- 
raphy and reading. 

To those teach- rs and pupils who have grown weary of the 
usual Friday Afternoon Exercises. 

To those tt achers who wish to arouse the interest and enlist 
the aid of parents in the work of the school. 

To those teachers who wish to equip their schools with 
libraries, pictures, stereopticon views, eti\ 

To those teachers who wish to obtain funds for this purpose 
by giving school entertainments which will not require much 
extra w- rk on the part of the teachers. 

To those teachers who wish to give entertainments which 
will be the outcome of the regular school work. 

To those teachers who believe that pupils enjoy, appreciate, 
pnd make the best use of material which they themselves have 
helped to secure or earn. 



The following numbers arc now under way: December, The 
Philippine Islands ; January, Alaska ; February, Mexico ; March, 
Australia. 



I 



THE PLAN BOOK SERIES 



A LITTLE 



JOURNEY TO HAWAII 



FOR INTERMEDIATE AND UPPER 
GRADES 



By 

MARIAN M. GEORGE 



CHICAGO: 
A. FLANAGAN COMPANY 



*b 



Copyright, 1900, 
By A. FLANAGAN COMPANY. 



A Little Journey to 
Hawaii. 



If a magician were to appear and offer to conduct 
you to any part of the world and show you any one of 
its wonders, what would you wish to see? 

Think a moment of the descriptions of other coun- 
tries which you have read, and of which also your geog- 
raphies give you glimpses. 

I believe that most of you would say, " I would like 
to see a volcano, a live, active volcano.' ' 

I am sure, then, that you would enjoy a trip to 
Hawaii, one of our new possessions in the Pacific, for 
each of the large Hawaiian Islands has been an im- 
mense volcano. 

All of them are now extinct, except one. This is 
Kilauea, the largest active volcano in the world, and 
the only safe one to visit. Then let us get our maps, 
and take a glimpse of these islands before we start on 
this long journey. We find them almost in the center 
of the Pacific Ocean and directly west of Mexico. 
They lie about 2,080 miles southwest of San Francisco, 
— a six-days' journey from that city. 

There are said to be fifteen or twenty of these islands, 
but only eight of them are of any importance. The 
others are mere stretches or ridges of rock, and are of 

3 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



5 



little value to mankind. These islands look very small 
on the map, and their total area in square miles is only 
little more than that of the State of Connecticut. 

Hawaii is the largest island and the one from which 
the group takes its name. It has 4,210 square miles of 
territory. The great volcanic mountains, Mauna Loa 
and Kilauea, are located on this island. 

Maui, the second island in size, has 760 square miles 
of land. Upon it is found the largest extinct volcano 
known. 

The other important islands are Oahu, Kauai, Mo- 
lokai, Lanai, Kahoolawe, and Niihau. 

You wonder how these islands came to be here in the 
middle of the ocean, so far away from any continent. 
I will tell you. They were volcano-belched and coral- 
built. 

Countless ages ago their peaks first appeared, forced 
upward from the bottom of the sea by the action of heat 
in the earth. From openings in these peaks water, 
gases, steam, hot ashes, and melted rock or lava were 
thrown up into the air. 

The ashes floated in the air, gradually falling over 
the land. The lava flowed down the sides of the peaks. 
More lava and other material were added as the years 
passed by. In this way, and through disintegration, 
the peaks became mountains and plains. 

Sometimes the force of the heat in the earth is so 
great that it pushes up large amounts of material from 
below, all at once, and an island appears above the sur- 
face of the water. 

After a time the rocks began to crumble and soil 
was formed. The waves, winds, and migrating birds 



6 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



brought seeds. These took root and grew. Grass, 
plants, and trees appeared. 

Near the coasts of these islands are reefs. These are 
sunken ledges of coral. 

These reefs extend along the coast for many miles 
and are sometimes quite wide. They are composed of 
the skeletons of millions and millions of tiny animals 
called coral polyps. 

When the reef reaches the surface of the water the 
coral builders die. They can not live when exposed to 
air. These solid walls are the growth of thousands of 
years ; for often the ground sinks as fast as the polyps 
build. 

THE VOYAGE. 

We take the steamer Ventura for Hawaii at San 
Francisco, Cal. Early in the morning a carriage 
awaits us, and with steamer trunks, chairs, and rugs, 
we are driven to the pier. 

We see that our belongings are stowed safely away, 
and then we go on deck to watch the people who crowd 
the wharf. Here, also, we obtain our first glimpse of 
San Francisco Bay. 

What a hurry and flurry! What confusion every- 
where! The steamer is to leave at ten, and late arriv- 
als are making frantic efforts to get baggage aboard in 
time. 

At last the whistle sounds, the steamer casts off her 
moorings, and with many "good-bys" ringing in our 
ears, we leave the shore and move out into the harbor. 

The water in the bay is smooth, and the ship glides 
Swiftly over it and through the " Golden Gate " to the 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



7 



sea. (At the narrow entrance to the bay are two high 
cliffs that rise opposite each other. The passage be- 
tween these, we find, is called the Golden Gate.) 

When we pass through and meet the waters of the 
ocean, the steamer begins to plunge and toss about. 




Sea Guw,s Fou,owing the Ship. 



We are surprised at this. We have always supposed 
the Pacific to be calm and smooth, because of its name, 
which means " tranquil " or " quiet." 

Though it is winter, the weather is warm enough to 
allow us to sit on deck; and here we watch the changing 
sea and sky. 

The sea gulls interest us also. These big white birds 
in countless numbers fly in and out among the ship- 
ping, uttering shrill cries, or skimming, almost float- 
ing, on the water beside the ship. 



8 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



The gulls are never harmed, for they are useful as 
scavengers, in removing decaying food and other matter 
thrown into the ocean. 

The steamship company provides much for our com- 
fort and amusement. There are musical instruments 
for concerts. There are books in the ship's library 
for those who love reading. There are splendid rooms, 
and large staterooms, where we may sit, when the 
weather is unpleasant on deck. 

There is much to interest us in the work of the 
sailors and officers of the ship. We enjoy the fire drill 
and watching the officers " take the sun," to learn the 
number of knots run during the day. 

Our ship takes us swiftly toward the equator, and it 
grows so warm that we are obliged to take off our heavy 
clothing and put on thin suits. 

The second day we find the ocean more quiet, the 
weather balmy, and the skies clear and sunny. 

On deck the time is passed away by various games 
(such as tossing quoits and bean-bags), or by watching 
for whales, whale birds, and porpoises. 

We see large numbers of pretty flying fish. Some- 
times we pass through a school of them, and they flutter 
about, greatly frightened. The starfish, with fine arms, 
appears in this ocean; also the nautilus, with its trans- 
parent shell. 

This small, frail rover is to be seen only on calm 
days. If disturbed, it draws itself within its tiny shell, 
and sinks slowly from sight. 

Sometimes the jellyfish comes to the surface, and we 
see it expanding and contracting its soft, flat body, as 
it floats through the still waters. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



9 



The beautiful sunsets are followed by purple twi- 
lights, and the sky blossoms with bright golden stars 
as big as young moons. The Southern Cross, which 
we can not see at home, now becomes visible. 

AMBERGRIS. 



At one place we notice a pale gray, amber-like sub- 
stance floating on the water. The captain tells us 




Native Hawaiian Boatman. 

(Diamond Head in the Distance.) 

that it is ambergris ; that it is produced by the whale, 
and that it is often found in parts of the Pacific. 

When it floats ashore, it is gathered ; for it is worth 
its weight in gold. It is sent from the Pacific Islands 
to other parts of the world to be used in making per- 
fumery, and for other purposes. 

Ambergris is one of the chief sources of the profit 
of whaling. Whenever a whale is captured, a careful 
search is made in its intestines for ambergris ; for this 
may be worth more than the oil in the blubber. 



IO A UTTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



" How does it come to be in the whale, and how is it 
used in making perfumery? " we ask 

Our captain tells us that we have among our passen- 
gers a famous scientist, — a man who has traveled all 
over the world, and has devoted many years to studying 
plant and animal life. 

He suggests that we ask this traveler to explain the 
matter to us, and this is what Professor Henry A. Ward 
tells us : — 

" Ambergris is produced by the sperm whale, and is 
due to its diet of cuttlefish. This fish has a beak like 
a parrot or eagle, the upper part lapping over the lower, 
of a hard horn-like substance, and with a cutting edge. 

" The sperm whale has teeth, but they make no im- 
pression on the beak of the cuttlefish. This is swal- 
lowed, and as it can not be digested by the stomach, it 
passes entire through the intestines and often lascerates 
the walls. 

" As the oyster throws out nacre to cover an irritating 
grain of sand and so makes a pearl, so the whale tries 
to cover the beak of the cuttlefish with a gummy sub- 
stance, to lessen the irritation. 

" This is often successful; but sometimes the mass of 
beaks becomes so great that the whale is killed. Then 
the balls of ambergris separate from the carcass and 
float away, — finally drifting to some coast where they 
are found. 

" Ambergris has a disagreeable odor at first, its delight- 
ful perfume being a development in process of manu- 
facture; and it has the further quality of fixing other 
perfumes in alcohol, so they do not lose by evapora- 
tion." 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



II 



Professor Ward tells us that one ounce sometimes 
brings as high as $30 to $40 ; and that the price never 
goes below $15 an ounce. 

After this we are extremely anxious to see a whale. 
By and by our watch is rewarded. In the distance 
we see a dark object, which, at intervals, throws up a 
stream of water into the air. As we draw nearer, this 
is seen to be a whale. The huge creature swims lei- 
surely along, coming closer and closer to our ship ; and 
everybody hurries to the side of the vessel in order to 
get a good view of this greatest of living animals. 

BRIEF HISTORY OF HAWAII. 

During our ocean trip it occurs to us that when we 
reach land we will be busy sight-seeing. We wish to 
appreciate and understand everything that we see, so 
that we can tell our friends all about Hawaii. 

So we occupy part of our time in reading up on the 
history and the climate of the islands. And this is 
what we find: — 

The Hawaiian Islands were discovered Jan. 18, 1778, 
by Captain Cook, an English navigator. 

He was not the first white man who had visited these 
islands, but he was the first man who made them 
known to the world. 

Captain Cook named the islands the Sandwich 
Islands, in honor of his friend and patron, the Earl of 
Sandwich. The name Hawaii was the one used by 
the natives, however, and the islands are now generally 
known by this name. 

When Captain Cook landed at the island of Kauai 
the natives were much astonished and frightened, 



12 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



They had never seen a white man, and looked upon 
him as a god. 

A year later the English navigator visited the islands 
a second time, and was welcomed with great joy. Both 
he and his crew were treated with much kindness and 
consideration. 

His sailors got into difficulty with the natives, how- 
ever, and in 
one of the 
quarrels b e - 
tween them 
Captain Cook 
was killed. 

From this 
time on many 
vessels called 
at the islands, 
and the na- 
tives began to 
trade with 
foreigners. 

The islands 
at this period 
were governed 
by chiefs who 
constantly 
waged war 
against each other, causing the loss of many lives. 

When Captain Vancouver visited the islands, four- 
teen years later, he found most of them in subjection 
to a famous chief and warrior, King Kamehameha 
(Ka-me'-ha-me'-ha). 




Statue; of Kamehameha I. (Honolulu). 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 1 3 



The first missionaries to visit the islands were those 
sent by the American Board from Boston, Massachu- 
setts, in 1820. 

The widow of King Kamehameha L, who was acting 
as qneen regent at this time, gave them permission to 
remain one year. At the end of this time they had 
won her friendship, and were permitted to remain as 
long as they wished. 

It is largely due to the efforts of these missionaries 
that the Hawaiians 



have reached their 
present state of 
civilization. 

They reduced 
the language to 
writing, and trans- 
lated the Bible and 
other books into 
the Hawaiian 
tongue. They 
taught the people 
to read, write, and 
sew, and i n t r o - 
duced the use of 
medicines. 

Many Ameri- 
cans and Europeans thereafter settled in the islands, 
and agriculture became of great importance. Great 
crops of sugar cane, rice, coffee, and fruits are produced. 

The people became dissatisfied with the efforts of 
Queen Liliuokalani to abolish the constitution adopted 
in 1887, and a revolution took place during her reign. 




Queen Liliuokalani. 



14 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



The queen was deposed and a provisional government 
was established, with Sanford B. Dole as president. 

The Republic of Hawaii, patterned after that of the 
United States, was formed on July 4, 1894. Many of 

the people thought 
it would be a good 
thing for the United 
States to govern the 
islands, and in 1898 
they were annexed 
by treaty to our 
country. 

Hawaii now has a 
population of 154,- 
000 people, show- 
ing an increase of 
40 per cent since 
the last census. 
About one-third of 
these are said to be 
natives, one-fifth 
Chinese, one-fourth 
Japanese, one- 
eighth Portuguese, one-tenth Americans, and the 
remainder, English, Scotch, French, Dutch, Ca- 
nadians, Scandinavians, Peruvians, and Australians. 

CLIMATE OF HAWAII. 

Hawaii is a land of sunshine and showers, rainbows 
and flowers. The climate is almost perfect. Plants 
bloom and fruits ripen the year round. One month is 
almost as pleasant as another, if we except November 




Pres. Sanford B. Dole. 



A UTTI,E JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 15 



and February. Storms are apt to prevail during these 
two months. 

Fourth of July and Christmas are very much alike as 
far as the weather is concerned, and one in Hawaii has 
to think twice to remember which comes next. 

On the hottest days of summer the thermometer is 
rarely above eighty degrees. In winter it never falls 
below sixty. 

The heat is greatly moderated by trade winds and 
ocean currents. 

In the winter the south wind, which the natives call 
the " sick wind," sometimes takes the place of the 
pleasant trade winds. This season is dreaded by the 
white residents, as it is apt to be followed by slight 
illnesses and depression. But the climate is usually 
healthful. 

Not more than a half dozen days during the year are 
without sunshine. Almost every day has its shower 
and rainbow, in parts of the islands. The frequency of 
these brilliant rainbows has given to the Hawaiian 
country the name of the " Land of the Rainbow." 

Its delightful climate and never-ending summer have 
also caused it to be known as "The Paradise of the 
Pacific." 

LAND AT LAST! 

On the sixth day we get our first glimpse of land ) 
which appears like a small blue cloud rising from the 
ocean. It proves to be Molokai, the island made famous 
by its leper settlement. 

We also make out what appears to be a huge watch- 
tower, on another island. This proves to be a great 
extinct volcano upon the island of Maui. 



1 6 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 

Oahu, the island which we are first to visit, is third 
in size in Hawaii, but first in importance ; for it holds 
the capital city, Honolulu, and leads in commerce and 
manufacture. 

It has a length of 46 miles, a breadth of 25 miles, and 
an area of 600 square miles. 

It is mountainous, as are the other islands. Some of 




Government Building ( Honolulu ) . 

(Formerly Palace of King Kalakaua and Queen Eiliuokalani.) 



the peaks are more than 3,000 feet in height. Its chief 
landmark from the ocean is Diamond Head, about six 
miles from the harbor light. 

Soon we come in sight of Koko Head, a peak near 
one end of the island of Oahu. As we steam nearer, 
we see that the sides of this mountain are covered with 
brown lava, which the sunlight turns to bronze. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 1 7 



In the crevices of the mountain and at its base are 
the rich green of vegetation. The beach is dazzling 
white, and fringed with groves of cocoa and palm trees. 

Diamond Head and the Punch Bowl, extinct vol- 
canoes, now loom up before us, guarding and hiding 
from view the city and harbor of Honolulu. 

A lookout station is located on Diamond Head, to re- 
port approaching vessels, by telephoning to the city. 

Then a steam whistle tells everyone for miles around 
that foreign mail and news are near at hand, and hun- 
dreds of people hasten to the docks to welcome the 
vessel. 

Our ship is met outside the harbor by the pilot, who 
has come to guide us safely to the landing place. 

Then the customs officials, the health officer or port 
physician, and the mail clerk come on board. Do you 
know why ? 

Away out on that sandspit within the line of reefs is 
a quarantine station. You can see the long, low, clean- 
looking barracks. These afford shelter for thousands 
of emigrants at a time. 

If there had been any contagious disease among our 
passengers, our ship would have been anchored there 
until the sick passengers were well. We would all 
have had to remain there until the health officer was 
sure that there was no danger of contagion. 

The customs officer takes statements of the name, 
age, address, destination and general appearance of 
each passenger. We are asked how long we expect 
to remain on the island, and if we have brought in our 
trunks any articles on which the government has laid 
a tax or duty. 



l8 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



All of us are required to show fifty dollars before 
landing. This is to insure against the country's being 
infested with paupers. 

Those who have firearms are obliged to give them up 
at the dock, where the baggage is examined. These 
are kept until the passengers have satisfied the attor- 
ney-general that they do not intend to make any dis- 
turbance in the country. 

HONOLULU HARBOR. 

Honolulu has one of the finest ports in all the world, 
but it is the only good harbor of the Hawaiian Islands. 

In order to reach it we must pass through walls or 
reefs of coral ; for it is land-locked. 

Passing the lighthouse, which stands on the inner 
edge of the reef, we are soon in the still waters of the 
harbor. It is filled with stately ships, whaling vessels, 
and smaller craft, with flags flying gayly from the 
masts. 

Canoes, manned by brown natives, dart through the 
water like living things. Some of them have spied our 
vessel and are rowing toward us. 

The harbor and city make so beautiful a picture that 
it seems to us as if we must at last have reached fairy- 
land. 

The color of the water in the harbor seems suddenly 
to have changed. It is bluer than the ocean, and so 
clear that we can see plainly objects at a great depth. 
Near the shore it changes to a light blue or bottle 
green, and many beautiful lights fall across its glassy 
surface. 

The curved beach is fringed with cocoanut trees, with 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



slender trunks and plume-like tops. It makes us think 
of what Mark Twain said when he entered this harbor, 
" I have often wondered where all the feather dusters 
came from ; and here they are, growing upside down." 

The harbor is bordered with rolling hills that rise 
one above another. These are crowned by picturesque 
banana and cocoanut trees and waving palms. 




Harbor of Honouji^u. 



Beyond the harbor, to the westward, is a sweep of sea- 
beach lined with splendid mansions and pretty cottages. 

A short distance from the dock we make out what 
seem to be cocoanuts bobbing about on the waves ; but 
a closer view reveals the little curly heads and eager 
brown faces of Hawaiian boys. 

They have come out to the ship to exhibit their skill 
in diving. They shout to us to throw them a nickel. 



20 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 

When we do so, every little head disappears in a 
twinkling. 

Before the coin reaches the bottom one of the num- 
ber secures it and reappears. Holding it up to view, 
he shouts, " Here 's your nickel ! " Placing it in his 
mouth, he clamors for more. 

Hundreds of people are standing on the wharf, ready 
to welcome our good ship. It seems as if the whole 
city has turned out to meet us. 




Native Hut in Hawaii. 

We are greeted with shouts and cheers of welcome. 
The gang plank is thrown out, and there is a rush for 
land. " A-lo-ha ! Aloha ! " we hear on all sides. 

This is an expression used by the Hawaiian people, 
when they meet or part, and means " My love to you." 

Some of the people gathered at the pier are Ameri- 
cans, dressed very much as we dress at home in the 
summer time. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



21 



The ladies and children wear thin white muslins and 
leghorn hats ; the men and boys white linen, duck, or 
flannel suits, and panama hats. 

But most of the people are natives, or Hawaiians, 
dark-eyed, dark-haired, brown-faced men and women, 
with happy, smiling countenances, and pleasant, mu- 
sical voices. 

The native women wear dresses of white, red, black, 
or brown muslin, made in "Mother Hubbard" style. 

But the thing that we notice first, is that both native 
men and women go with bare feet, and wear garlands 
of flowers on their hats and about their necks. 

After greetings have been exchanged, the people 
slowly disperse and many make their way to the post 
office. Large crowds gather here after the arrival of a 
foreign mail steamer. 

Mails are distributed immediately on arrival, and 
numbers of persons sometimes stand about the post 
office far into the night,- waiting for the precious letter 
from home or friends. 

For two or three hours business is almost suspended, 
so eager is everyone to learn what is taking place in 
the outside world. 

After the customhouse officer has examined our 
trunks, we secure a carriage and drive to our hotel, 
which is but a short distance away. 

HONOLULU. 

Honolulu is thought by many travelers to be one of 
the most beautiful tropical cities in the world. It is 
built on a plain on the southwestern shore of Oahu 
(O-a'-hoo). 



22 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



It nestles in a lovely valley, with lofty volcanic moun- 
tains in the background, and is closed in on the east 
and west by hills that were once volcanic cones. 

The entire city is enveloped in a wealth of tropical 
foliage, in the shade of which are stately homes, and 
pretty cottages with broad verandas. 

Honolulu is the capital of Hawaii, and the only large 
city of the group. Over thirty-five thousand people 
make their homes here. 

The greater number of these are native Hawaiians, 
but there are also large numbers of Chinese, Japanese, 
Portuguese, Americans, Scotch, and English. 

We are surprised to find the streets, stores, and build- 
ings much like those of our eastern cities at home. 
Were it not for the people and the strange vegetation, 
we might believe ourselves in the United States. 

Honolulu has macadamized streets, a street railway 
system, telephones, electric lights, a public library, a fire 
department, fine executive buildings, churches, schools, 
banks, and stores. 

The business houses are chiefly two-story brick or 
stone structures, and the majority of the residences are 
cottages of one story; but there are many fine homes 
in Honolulu. 

American flags are everywhere. We see more of 
them here than at home. We are told that the majority 
of the government officials are Americans ; that most of 
the business and taxable property is in the hands of 
Americans; that the trade of the islands is mostly with , 
the United States; and that the English language is used 
except with the Japanese and Chinese. 

We enter a store and find it kept by an American 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 23 

merchant. We ask to see an article. It is brought to 
us by an American clerk, and has, we find, been im- 
ported from the United States. 

But just as we begin to feel at home, we meet with a 
surprise. At a street corner we come across a group of 
Hawaiian women and girls, sitting on mats on the side- 
walk making and selling wreaths and ropes of flowers. 




Hawaiian Flower Girls. 



Their wares are displayed in baskets before them, 
and on their persons. A part of this display is wound 
about their heads, and hangs down from their necks in 
front. 

Carnations and tuberoses are much used for these 



24 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



festoons; also a peculiar native yellow flower, which has, 
to us, a disagreeable odor. 

These flower sellers do a big business, too ; for every 
man, woman, and child that we meet, walking or riding, 
wears flowers about the hat or neck. 

We are told that the people are so fond of flowers 
that they always wear them when they go about the 
streets. On their holidays and at their feasts, they 
wear yards of festoons of brilliant flowers. When they 
send or present a gift, it is accompanied with a bouquet 
of flowers. When friends or members of the family 
depart on a journey, they are specially decorated. Even 
the ponies are not neglected in this respect. 

A Japanese fruit vender, with his wares suspended in 
two baskets from a bamboo pole, wanders slowly past us. 

Down the road comes a train of ponies loaded with 
bunches of bananas, which are on their way to one of 
the vessels now in the harbor. 

Many white-clad sailors from foreign vessels in port 
are in the streets and shops. Natives are lounging 
about on the sidewalks, or in the shops and streets, 
chatting gayly. No one seems to be in a hurry, and all 
seem to be enjoying themselves. 

We walk on through the city, and soon we meet with 
another surprise. Turning a corner we find ourselves 
in Chinatown. The houses and stores are built by the 
Chinamen just as they are built in China. 

Before us are Chinese signs and notices, Chinese 
goods and curios for sale in the queer little shops, and 
Chinese merchants. The streets are filled with almond- 
eyed, long-cued, gayly clad Chinese men, women, and 
children. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 25 

Some of the children are coming home from school 
and some are standing at the doors of the shops. Snch 
odd little solemn-faced tots ! We can hardly tell the 
girls and boys apart, they are dressed so much alike. 
They wear long, loose jackets, and trousers of blue, 
green, and other colors. 

Some are barefooted 
and bareheaded. Others 
wear tiny, close-fitting 
caps, and all have their 
black hair braided in a 
cue. 

Now let us take a 
carriage and drive to the 
principal street, or the 
Nuuanu Avenue. W e 
find it a wide, straight 
street, several miles in 
length. (See illustration, 
page 26.) 

Some of the most 

beautiful residences are YoTJNG Chinese Woman in Hawaii. 
on this street, and among them many of the homes of 
the old residents and prominent Americans. 

All along the streets are attractive lawns, some of 
them containing half an acre, mam- of them contain- 
ing several acres. Every home in Hawaii seems to be 
surrounded by flowering plants of some kind. The 
very poorest house or hut has a profusion of roses, 
lilies, palms, and vines. 

We find here most admirable roads — smooth, hard, 
and level as the floor. They have been macadamized 




26 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



with crushed or broken lava from the volcanic moun- 
tains. 

We drive through palm-lined streets, past gardens 
gay with strange flowers, and note here and there a vine- 
covered wall or tree. Past huge-leaved tropical plants 
and under mango trees we go out to the seashore, where 
the cocoanut groves flourish. 




Nuuanu Avenue, Honolulu. 



Along the shore are fish ponds, inclosed by walls of 
stone, built out in the shallow water of the bay. Fish 
are grown and fattened for food in these ponds. 

Near the outskirts of the city are neat gardens, tilled 
by the Chinese. In these gardens are grown the vege- 
tables and fruits which supply the city market. 

Around these little plats of land are narrow canals, 
and in these ditches ducks swim and paddle about. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 27 

The Chinese are as fond of ducks as they are of rice, 
and these irrigating ditches are fine places for the rais- 
ing of ducks. 

Now let us go up to Punch Bowl Hill, which over- 
looks the city, for a bird's-eye view. This mound is an 




Pau Pass. 



extinct volcano, whose summit is about five hundred 
feet above the sea level. 

A stream runs along the bottom of the hill through 
Nuuanu Valley to the sea. This valley stretches away 
from the harbor about six miles to a pass or precipice 
called Pali Pass. Away to the southeast we see Dia- 
mond Head, five miles distant. 



28 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



These interesting spots we shall visit later. We are 
so enraptured by the beautiful scene stretched out be- 
fore us that we are tempted to linger a long time. 

But our guide breaks in upon our reverie and says 
that there are many pleasures in store for us. He tells 
us that it is the custom for visitors to stay at the fine 
Hawaiian hotel, where the sweet music of the native 
band is played twice a week ; to ride about the streets 
of the city of Honolulu ; to bathe in the warm surf of 
Waikiki, a suburb with a fine beach near the city ; to 
drive to Diamond Head and to Punchbowl Mountain ; 
to climb the heights of Pali, a famous precipice; to 
travel around the Oahu Island, on the railroad; and to 
visit the beautiful Pearl Harbor with its growing town. 
Then we can take the inter-island steamer, and visit 
Hawaii proper, with its great coffee plantations, and its 
wonderful volcano, Kilauea. 

Kauai, the Garden Isle, will next attract us, with its 
wealth of bloom and its native life little touched with 
civilization. Molokai also draws us to gaze with pity 
and wonder on the leper colony. 

After a short drive about Honolulu we return to the 
hotel. 

Japanese servants carry our luggage to our rooms 
while we stroll about the veranda and take a look at 
our surroundings. 

The hotel is in a lawn made beautiful with royal 
palms, banana, and other tropical plants and vines. 

Many strange dishes appear on the table here. 
Among the fruits are bananas, cocoanuts, the mango, 
custard apple, alligator pear, rose apple, and strawber- 
ries — which grow all the year round on these islands. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



29 



There is also the guava, from which guava jelly is 
made. It is sliced and eaten with sugar and milk, but 
is not so good that way as in jelly. There are also 
watermelons and bread fruit, taro, which takes the place 
of our potato, poi, a kind of porridge made of taro root, 
flying fish, and mullet. 

The taro is served like mush and eaten with cream 
and sugar, or with butter and salt, as we eat the potato. 

After dinner we go out into the lanai. This word 
means a " lean-to," and at one time was an addition 
with a slanting roof covered with banana leaves. 

In the yard is a pavilion in which musicians are 
gathered. The verandas are festooned with Japanese 
lanterns. The full moon lights up the scene, and 
shows us many people and large numbers of carriages 
outside the grounds. 

The band plays on each night of " full-moon week," 
and never fails to attract an audience. 

There are three public band-stands in well-kept 
parks and squares besides the one at the Hawaiian 
Hotel grounds. 

Here the government band plays an hour or two four 
times a week, and also plays on the departure of the 
local steamer for San Francisco. 

All band concerts end with " Hawaii Ponoi," one of 
the prettiest of national airs. (See page 96.) 

THE FISH MARKET. 

One of the most interesting places in Honolulu is 
the fish market, and, as it is only ten minutes ' walk 
from the hotel, we will stroll over there. 

Saturday is the great market day. The natives 



30 A I4TTI,E JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



gather on that day by the hundreds to buy their Sun- 
day supply of fish. 

The market is an open building, covering an acre 
and a half of ground. A roof protects dealers and cus- 
tomers from the sun and the frequent showers. 

Sellers and buyers of many races are here. Hawai- 
ians, Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, English, and 
Americans all mingle together. 

Saturday is also pay day for the people on the plan- 
tations and in the town establishments, and the day on 
which the country people come to market with their 
produce. 

It is a kind of holiday, and everyone joins in the 
festivities, with evident pleasure. 

The natives are dressed in holiday attire and have 
decorated themselves with flowers. 

There is much laughing, talking and merry-making. 
All are bright and cheerful. The people have soft, 
pleasant voices, and are fond of making speeches, too, 
which they often do in the market place. They are 
sure to have interested, attentive audiences. 

On the market tables are piled berries, fruit, seaweed 
and fish. And such strange and wonderful fish as we 
never have seen before ! 

One is black, another a gold color, another purple, 
and perhaps another of emerald- green. Some are 
spotted like the leopard and some striped like the tiger. 

There must be a hundred kinds at least. Some of 
them are beautiful, but others are hideous. 

There are devil fish, dolphins, flying fish, ocean mul- 
let, crabs, squid, limpets, oysters, lobsters, and sea 
urchins. 



A LimE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 3 1 



There are also gold and silver fish, such, as we keep 
at home in glass globes, These are larger here and 
the natives eat them as they do any other fish. 

The Chinamen catch and sell them to passenger 
steamers for about fifty cents a hundred. 

There are many kinds of sea-mosses, which the na- 
tives dry and eat with their poi. They eat very little 
meat and seem quite content with their poi and fish. 

The berries, fish, and fruit which the people buy are 
wrapped up by the shopkeeper in broad, fresh, green 
ti leaves. This is much nicer than ill-smelling brown 
paper. 

Each class of people has its favorite food. The 
natives prefer shrimps, squid, crabs, eels, and sharks. 
The whites prefer mullet. 

WAIKIKI. 

The most popular resort of the island is Waikiki 
(Wy-kee-kee'), a suburb about four miles from Hono- 
lulu, at the foot of Diamond Head. The beach at this 
place has a clean, sand bottom, and the clear warm 
water makes it a very fine bathing place. 

This suburb was the home of former kings and 
queens of Hawaii. The last king had a fine dwell- 
ing there, and many of the wealthy residents of Hono- 
lulu have pretty homes in the place. 

Robert Louis Stevenson, the famous author, lived 
here for a time. The house which sheltered him is 
always shown to visitors. 

The journey to this suburb may be made on the 
street cars, drawn by lazy mules ; but a driveway runs 
along the shore of the bay and we prefer this. 



32 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



The road is shadowed by palms and bordered by rare 
and wonderful plants and flowers. Some of these we 
have seen before, but only in hot houses and conserva- 
tories. 

In the Queen's Wood or on the Queen's Beach native 
feasts are sometimes held. A hundred or more people 
may gather there, bringing with them their poi in 
small wooden bowls. 

The other part of the banquet is of fish, eaten raw. 
When the people have gathered for their feast, they 
leave the babies on the beach and the men, women, and 
children old enough to swim plunge into the sea and 
swim to the outer reef. There, on the coral rocks, they 
wait for the flying fish, which, as they appear above the 
foam, are caught in eager hands. When enough fish 
have been caught, the feast begins. 

A few go out in canoes, which are not unlike those 
used when Captain Cook visited the islands. Formerly 
they were made of tree-trunks, hollowed out and shaped 
by means of stone axes and fire. To-day the natives 
use steel tools to make them. 

They are steered and propelled with a paddle, and 
steadied by means of a rude outrigger. 

PALI PASS. 

Pali Pass is another interesting point on the island 
of Oahu. This historic spot lies six miles from 
Honolulu, up the Nuuanu Valley. 

At this place, in 1795, the last battle was fought by 
which Oahu lost its independence and King Kameha- 
meha added one more island to his possessions. 

King Kalani, of Oahu Island, lived on the present 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



33 



site of Honolulu, when Kamehameha attacked him and 
drove his army up to the pass or precipice. Here the 
army was entirely destroyed. Hundreds of his men 
were hurled over this fearful precipice, more than 500 
feet high. 

Pali means " a precipice ; " but the name is also given 
to an opening in the mountain. Through this pass a 
road has been made which leads down to the valleys on 
the other side. (See illustration, page 27.) 

The pass lies at an elevation of 1,207 feet above the 
sea. The entrance to it is between lofty peaks. 

No tourist visits Honolulu without a trip to this 
famous place. Mounting tough little mountain ponies, 
we start early in the morning. 

Our ride takes us along the Nuuanu Avenue, lined 
with shade trees, fine homes, and well-kept lawns. By 
the roadside are fertile vegetable gardens in which 
Chinamen raise rice, yams, sweet corn, potatoes, mel- 
ons, pumpkins, pineapples, peas, carrots, turnips, let- 
tuce, celery, and strawberries. 

Leaving the avenue, we come to the open valley from 
which the steep mountains rise. 

We pass hedges covered with showy scarlet flowers 
and groves of guava trees. We meet many parties of 
Chinamen, driving little donkeys loaded with rice for 
the Honolulu market. 

These small animals carry heavy loads up steep hills, 
and along narrow ledges where a single false step would 
send them over a precipice upon rocks hundreds of 
feet below. 

Chinamen do not like to travel alone and are usually 
seen in companies. If they are poor, they walk and 
3 



34 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



carry their burdens. If well-to-do, they ride and use 
ponies or donkeys for pack horses. 

We pass many native houses along the road. Some- 
times we see a native woman washing clothing on a 
large flat rock. She kneels on the rock, dips the 
clothes in the water, and rubs them over the rough 
stooe. 

From the summit of the pass we have a magnificent 
view. At the foot of the precipice are wooded and 
grassy hills dotted with the huts of the natives ; be- 
yond these are great stretches of sugar plantations or 
of rice fields. 

On the right and left rise the gray mountain peaks. 
Beyond all these lies the blue Pacific. 

Through the Pali Pass the trade winds at times blow 
furiously. One can scarcely breathe or speak while 
facing them. 

A wall has been built along the edge of the precipice 
to keep people from being blown over during the sea- 
sons when the trade winds are so strong. 

These trade winds bring rain clouds from the sea 
through this opening, and these cause the valleys to be 
more fertile than those of the other islands. 

THE HAWAIIAN PEOPLE A HUNDRED YEARS AGO. 

When Captain Cook came to Hawaii, he found it 
peopled with a race of barbarians similar in appearance 
to our North American Indians. They had black eyes 
and hair and brown complexions. 

They were tall and well formed. Some of them 
tattooed their faces and bodies. The men wore little 
clothing — merely a cloth around the waist and thigh. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



35 



The women had clear complexions, fine white teeth, 
and red lips. They were inclined to be stout, but had 
a fine carriage. They wore short skirts reaching to 
their knees. The children wore no clothes at all. 




A Chief, and Other Hawaiian Aborigines. 



These people lived in grass houses. They built them 
as the birds do, — of leaves and grass and stems. Bam- 
boo poles were used for the framework, and these were 
fastened together with ropes and cords made of the 
fiber of the palm leaf. The sides and top were thatched 
with grass. 

The houses looked like hay stacks, at a distance. 
They had low openings for doors and sometimes win- 
dows, but had no floors. 

The people lived out of doors, and did their cooking 
outside their homes. They went inside only to sleep, 
or when it rained. 



36 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



Mats were used for seats and for beds. Tapa cloth 
was used for blankets, and blocks for pillows. This 
tapa cloth was made from the inner bark of the paper 
mulberry tree. 




Hawaiian Grass House. 

Often the cloth was colored in fantastic style by the 
use of berries. This cloth is now seldom seen. 

The houses contained little furniture — perhaps some 
stools, a wicker basket, and wooden dishes, or the 
gourds of the calabash tree. 

Shark's teeth and a hard, fine-grained lava stone 
were used to make these calabashes and to build 
canoes. The people had no iron or steel tools until 
these were brought to the island by white men. 

They kindled their fires by rubbing a hard, pointed 
stick in a groove made in a piece of the soft haw tree 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



37 



wood. They cooked their food in ovens in the ground 
by means of heated stones. 

Strings of oily nuts from the candle-nut tree were 
used to light their houses. 

They were strung on grasses and hung up in the 
homes. The nut at the top was first lighted and this 
burned until the next one caught fire. 

Their food consisted of fish (which was eaten raw), 
dog meat, pork, fowls, poi (a food made of the root of 
the taro plant), yams, sugar cane, wild berries, and 
such fruits as bananas and cocoanuts. 

They ate with their fingers, the whole family eating 
from the same bowl or calabash. As they squatted 
about and devoured their food, the domestic animals — 
dogs, pigs, and fowls — shared their meal. 

In times of peace they were employed in fishing, 
canoe making, bird catching, taro planting, wood cut- 
ting, tapa making, and mat weaving. 

Their wants were simple. They required ground in 
which to plant the taro, the sea for fish, timber land for 
wood for canoes, and the mulberry for tapa cloth. They 
caught fish in nets which were let down to a great depth 
in the sea. 

After a while fish ponds were dug, filled with water 
and stocked with fish. The fish ponds had wicker gates 
which let in the small fish from the sea, but did not let 
out the big fish. Some of these ponds are hundreds of 
acres in area. They help 'to provide the people with 
food to-day. 

These native Hawaiians had no metals, no beasts of 
burden, no cereal grains, no cotton, no flax, and no 
wool. 



33 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



Their principal implement for cultivating the soil 
was a stick of hard wood, either pointed or shaped into 
a flat blade at the end. 

Their weapons were spears, daggers, clubs, and slings. 
The daggers were made of hard wood or bone. Slings 
were made of cocoanut fiber. 

Wars were frequent and cruel, — the chiefs of differ- 
ent parts of the island or of different islands contend- 
ing for supremacy. Sometimes they engaged in sea 
fights, with large fleets of canoes on each side. 

Human life was valued very lightly. The kings and 
chiefs put to death any who incurred their dislike. 

If a temple was to be dedicated, or the wrath of 
a goddess appeased by human sacrifices, the priests 
selected victims from among the common people. 

The dead were buried in holes near the doors of their 
huts, or thrown into the sea. 

When a Hawaiian died, friends gathered at the late 
home and wailed and chanted songs and danced. 

As they chanted, they pulled their hair and accom- 
panied the chant with a peculiar waving motion of the 
arms and legs. 

When a chief died, many of the people cut off their 
hair, knocked out their front teeth, and burned figures 
on their bodies. 

You must not think, however, that the people had no 
enjoyment or amusements. They were naturally a 
pleasure-loving people, and fond of games. 

They had wrestling and boxing matches, mock bat- 
tles, foot races, swimming and rowing contests, target 
practice, and many other sports. 

They were fond of sliding down the grassy hillsides 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



39 



on rude sleds, made with curved runners. The chiefs 
shot mice with bows and arrows, in the absence of 
larger game ; but no one else was allowed to do this. 

They had dances, of a peculiar kind, accompanied 
by music. This dancing consisted of movements of 
the arms and bodies, while the feet remained still. The 
girls and women were usually the dancers. They wore 
on these occasions short dresses of grass, ornaments, 
and wreaths of flowers. 

Native drums of different kinds were in use. Some 
of them were made by stretching dried skins over 
gourds. Others were made from part of the trunk of 
the cocoanut tree. One end of this was covered with 
shark skin. 

Singing and dancing were accompanied by the beat- 
ing of these drums. 




Surf Rider. 



40 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



But the favorite amusement and pastime of the peo- 
ple was surf riding in canoes or on surf boards. Men, 
women, and children all engaged in this pastime. The 
Hawaiian called his surf plank a " wave-sliding board. " 
It was made of breadfruit wood. 

Sometimes he rode the surf lying face downward on 
his board ; at other times he knelt ; but the more expert 
rider stood up, balancing first on one foot and then on 
the other. 

They swam out to sea with these boards until they 
met a great wave. They then threw themselves upon 
the wave and were carried by it to the shore. 

KINGS AND CHIEFS. 

All the land belonged to the king. He made his 
chiefs proprietors of the soil, on condition of rendering 
him tribute and military service. 

These chiefs then were supposed to own the land, all 
that grew upon it, the fish of the sea, and also the time 
and labor of the people. The common people were 
their servants in peace and followers in war, and were 
really slaves. 

Priests also were endowed with lands in consideration 
of teaching the people to observe certain religious rites, 
and to preserve the knowledge of astronomy, history, 
and medicine that had been handed down to them. In 
this work the priests were assisted by the medicine 
men and sorcerers. 

The chief was the supreme ruler and lawmaker, and 
no one disputed his will. A high chief was approached 
with abject gestures, and whenever he traveled, the peo- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 4 1 



pie along the road made him offerings of food or 
clothing. 

The chiefs directed the people in their labor and re- 
quired of them two days' work in every seven. In this 
time they cultivated his taro, cleaned or built his fish 
ponds, caught fish for him, gathered timber, built him 
canoes, or did any other work he required. 

The chiefs wore finer cloth than others and, as a spe- 
cial sign of rank, wore splendid feather cloaks, feather 
helmets, and the ivory clasp. 

Their canoes and sails were painted red, and on state 
occasions they were attended by men carrying plumed 
staffs. 

It was death for a common man to remain standing 
at the mention of the king's name in song, or when the 
king's food or clothing was carried past ; to enter his 
inclosure without permission, or to cross his shadow or 
that of his house. If a man wished to enter the pres- 
ence of the king, he must crawl on the ground and 
grovel in the dust before him. 

When a chief or hero died, his soul was supposed to go 
to a distant island where happiness and plenty reigned. 

He was buried in a cave, where it would be impossi- 
ble for his enemies to find his bones, and his death was 
lamented for months by the people. 

One kind of taro, which makes poi of a pink color, 
was tabued* and reserved for chiefs. Some birds were 
tabued on account of their feathers, particularly a black 
bird which has a small yellow feather under each wing. 



*To tabu was to forbid the people to do certain things ; or to make 
certain foods and articles of clothing forbidden to them. 



42 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



A certain kind of fish was tabu for six months of the 
year. 

Men and women were forbidden to eat at the same 
table, or to have their food cooked in the same oven. 
After a boy was five years old, he never sat at table 
with his mother or sisters. 

Girls were not thought so much of as boys and the 
tabu was made more difficult for the women to observe 
than the men. They were not allowed to eat pork, tur- 
tles, certain kinds of fish, bananas, and cocoanuts. 

RELIGION. 

The Hawaiians of a hundred years ago were heathen. 
Their priests taught them to believe in gods of the sea, 
land, and air, in shark and lizard 
gods, and in a goddess, called Pele 
(Pe-le), who was said to live in the 
craters of volcanoes. 

When the volcanoes sent forth 
lava, hot ashes, and sulphur fumes, 
the people believed Pele to be 
offended. There were other lesser 
gods of the forests, caves, and dark 
pools. 

The Hawaiians also feared the 
darkness and believed in evil spirits 
and ghosts. The priests taught the 
people to fear the gods and to ap- 
pease their wrath with offerings. 
The gods were represented by hid- 
eous images or idols. These were 
Idoi, once worshiped lace( j j n sacre d temples, which 
in Hawaii. <r 




A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 43 



were surrounded by high walls. Sometimes the 
images were placed upon the walls of the temple. In 
times of war they were carried in battle. 

Whenever the priests performed religious ceremo- 
nies, the people were forbidden to make a sound of 
any kind from sunset to sunrise, to walk about, to row 
a canoe, to light fires, or to prepare food. 

Even the animals had to be kept quiet. The dogs, 
pigs, and poultry were shut up in the dark to make 
them think it was night. 

The natives were taught to believe that a land of 
darkness received their souls at death ; and that cow- 
ards, upon reaching this place, were devoured by a 
terrible goddess. 

To-day we find a very different state of affairs. The 
people have given up their idols and heathen religion, 
and become Christians. 

In most towns and villages we find a church and a 
school. Sunday is strictly observed. The laws of the 
country prohibit business of any kind on that day. 

Both Protestant and Catholic churches are repre- 
sented, and Honolulu has a number of fine church 
buildings. Among these are two native churches, one 
of coral and one of wood. 

"How has this wonderful change been brought 
about?" we ask, and the people tell us it is the 
work of missionaries. 

The missionaries went to Hawaii in 1819, and began 
their work. They found the people without a religion, 
and taught them the Christian religion. They trans- 
lated the Bible into the Hawaiian language, and taught 
the natives to read and write, to sew and make them* 



44 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 

selves clothes, to build wooden houses, to value human 
life, and to live in a pleasanter way. 

They introduced food plants and trees, and the use 
of medicines ; established schools and churches ; and " 
secured the passage of wise laws to improve the condi- 
tion of the people. 

EDUCATION. 

The first school in Hawaii was held in a grass hut, 
and the first teachers were missionaries. Some of the 
pupils were very young and some were old and gray. 

There were so man}' of the pupils that all could not 
attend at the same time. It seemed as if everyone in 
Hawaii wanted to go to school. All were anxious to 
learn. 

So the pupils were divided into classes. Some re- 
cited their lessons and went away, and others came to 
take their places. There were no desks or seats. The 
pupils sat on mats on the ground. 

And at first there were no books or writing materials. 
The Hawaiians had never seen a book, and did not know 
what reading and writing meant. But when they were 
told that books might be made to talk to them, they 
were very much interested. Even the queen wished to 
learn how to read. 

But the people did not know the English language, 
and the missionaries were obliged to make some books 
for them in the Hawaiian language. There are twelve 
letters in the Hawaiian alphabet, so it did not take long 
to learn that. But it was not an easy matter to print 
and write books in the Hawaiian language. 

The Hawaiians were very fond of the books which 
the missionaries printed for them ; so they carried them 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



45 



about with them constantly until they had learned to 
read them. 

To-day there are few among them who can not read 
and write. 



Every district in the island is supplied by the gov- 
ernment with free schools. These are in session forty 
weeks in each year, 




Eauehameha School. 

The schoolhouses have desks, blackboards, and books 
like those in the United States. 

Many of the teachers are Americans, and the text- 
books are mainly from the United States. In nearly 
every school are Chinese and Japanese children ; and 
there are two or three schools and kindergartens spe- 
cially for Chinese children. 



46 



A Little journey to Hawaii. 



In Honolulu we find many fine school buildings. 
Some of these are public, or government schools, and 
others are private. There is a college, a seminary for 
girls, and a manual training school for boys. 

The finest building of all was a gift from a Hawaiian 
princess, Bernice Pau-a'-hi Paki. She left her large 
fortune for the education of Hawaiian children. 

Bishop Museum is also a gift from this princess. In 
it are preserved relics of early Hawaiian days. Among 
these are weapons, utensils, mats, fans, cloth mantles, 
and many other articles of Hawaiian workmanship. 

HAWAII TO-DAY. 

The Americans are the leaders in Hawaiian govern- 
ment and business affairs to-day. A number of these 
men and women have been educated in the best schools 
and colleges in the United States. 

Many of the earlier white settlers married natives, 
and these half-caste families speak the English lan- 
guage, have been educated abroad, and live in homes of 
refinement and culture. 

In this pleasure-loving, hospitable land, enjoyment 
seems to be the aim and object of existence. 

In winter Honolulu is a popular resort for people 
from all over the world. At this time the hotels are 
full of guests, and the homes of the wealthy are full of 
visitors. 

Many of the Americans here have followed the South- 
ern fashion of building houses. Instead of having one 
grand mansion, the home is a cluster of cottages. 

The great family parlor is one house, and the guest 
house, cook house, and other cottages all form a little 



A. LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 47 

hamlet set in the midst of a beautiful lawn and flower 
garden. 

During the heat of the day the houses are deserted, 
and everyone finds a cool, shady nook in the garden, or 
a hammock on the veranda or in the lania. 

The lanias are rooms open on two or three sides, and 
many of the houses have them. 




House and Grounds of Wealthy Hawaiian. 



They make delightful sitting rooms on warm after- 
noons or evenings, and here the people really live. 

Some of the one-story houses have wide verandas all 
around, and are called bungalows. 

The houses are without any means of heating. No 
stoves, furnaces, or chimneys are ever seen except in a 
cook house. 

Carpets are not used. The floors are covered with 
matting or are oiled and covered with rugs. Wicker 
tables and chairs are much used. 



48 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



But we do not notice the houses so much as the trees 
and plants. The banyan, the bamboo, the rubber tree, 
the avocado, the mango, the brilliant and gaudy flowers 
and vines, the great oleanders, the night-blooming ce- 
reus — these are all new and strange to us. 

CHARACTER, OCCUPATIONS, AND CUSTOMS. 

The native Hawaiian of to-day reads his Bible and 
his newspaper, writes letters, wears clothes, owns prop- 
erty, acts as justice of the peace, policeman, judge, tax 
collector or assessor, and occupies many other positions 
under the government. 

He finds work in every walk of life. He is a painter, 
a carpenter, a blacksmith, a machinist, an engineer, a 
teamster, a cowboy, a planter, a bookkeeper, a clerk, a 
teacher, a preacher, or an editor. 

He is a fine sailor and fisherman, but he is a failure 
at the head of a business. He lacks executive power. 
He is not a success as a farmer or gardener, and if he 
has a piece of land, is apt to rent it to an industrious 
Chinaman. 

Any native, no matter how poor, sick, or friendless, 
can always find food, shelter, and a home among the 
people of his neighborhood. So there are no poor- 
houses in Hawaii and no beggars or tramps. 

The people rarely commit crimes, and have little use 
for jails. Quarrels, even among schoolboys, are rare, 
and fights seldom occur unless the native is under the 
influence of drink. 

The grass huts of early days have almost disappeared. 
Most of the natives now live in wooden houses and some 
of them have fine homes. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



49 



The houses of those of small means have open base- 
ments with ground floors. Upstairs are the parlor and 
a bedroom, usually kept for the guests. These rooms 
have straw carpets, chairs, and tables, and the bedroom 
has a good bed. 

But the natives do not care to use it. They sleep on 
mats on the bare floors. They cook their food out of 
doors, and really live outside their houses. 

The native is a famous fisherman. The sea fur- 
nishes him with food, employment, and his chief amuse- 
ment — surf riding. If he lives near the sea, hours of 
his time are spent in the water, or working about the 
wharves. The rest of the time he spends in taro plant- 
ing, poi making, mat weaving, reading, riding about, 
sleeping, playing his fiddle, or feasting. 

The women are not fond of housework. They much 
prefer to make and sell wreaths of flowers, and hire 
Japanese or Chinese servants to attend to their house- 
hold duties. They, too, spend much of their time in 
the water. 

The Hawaiian countryman lives a happy, care-free 
life. An hour's labor in his taro patch each day will 
keep it free from weeds. If he desires a change of diet, 
he has fish or clams from the sea, and fruit from the 
forest. 

The Chinese are the shopmen, fruit dealers and vend- 
ers, gardeners, laborers, and servants of Hawaii. They 
are industrious, sober, frugal, painstaking, and patient. 

These Chinese are fine gardeners, and are getting pos- 
session of all the best garden land. When they first 
came to Honolulu, they bought up all the low, swampy 
land near the city. It was then considered worthless ; 
4 



SO A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 

but the shrewd Chinamen tilled and drained it, and laid 
it out in neat gardens and rice fields. 

They are disliked by the natives and many of the 
foreigners, but they work away steadily and faithfully, 
and do not seem to mind. 

Their one object in life seems to be to accumulate 
enough money to take them back to their native land, 
and enable them to live at ease. 




A Native Feast, or Luau. 
THE LUAU OR PICNIC FEAST. 



A feast is the Hawaiian's favorite form of entertain- 
ment, and is looked forward to for days to come. 

Feasts (called luaus) are often given in honor of 
the birthdays of various members of the family, to 
entertain visitors, or to commemorate some event. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAW Ail. $1 

Usually these are partnership affairs — one family 
furnishing poi, another pork, others fish and fruit. 

At their meals or feasts they sit Turkish fashion on 
grass or cocoanut mats on the ground. 

Mats or boards serve as tables. The tablecloth is of 
ti leaves and ferns. The table is always decorated with 
flowers, and guests are given his (strings of flowers) to 
wear around their necks. 

There are no plates, no knives or forks. 

Each end of the table is graced by a roasted pig, and 
along the center are bananas, oranges, and mangoes. 

Among the fern leaves are small red boiled crabs. 
There are many calabashes, too, filled with poi, with 
meat of young cocoanuts, or with sweet potatoes. 

The fish and chicken are wrapped in ti leaves in 
order to keep them hot and to preserve the flavor, 
having first been cooked in an earthen pit under- 
ground. Live shrimps are also served, and these are 
always much in demand. Another favorite dish is 
roasted wild dog. 

The boys play native tunes on their guitars and fid- 
dles to amuse their guests, and accompany this music 
with a few dancing steps. At the end of the feast the 
national hymn, " Hawaii Ponoi," is sung, and then the 
party breaks up. 

SPORTS AND HOLIDAYS. 

Riding horseback is one of the popular amusements 
of the people. They love horses, and are fine and fear- 
less riders. Almost every man and woman owns a 
horse. 

The natives ride barefooted and hold their stirrups 
between their toes. 



52 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



When riding horseback the native women sit astride, 
or " man fashion," and wear a long, bright-colored cloth 
draped over the limbs. It almost reaches the ground. 

When the women ride fast, and they usually do, 
these bright colored cloths fly straight out like wings. 

IBprap The Hawaiian 



Christmas is much 
like a Fourth of 
July in the United 
States. 

The week before 
this holiday the 
stores and shops 
make a great dis- 
play of books, toys, 
and presents of 
every kind except 
sleds and skates. 
The streets are 
thronged with 
busy crowds just 
as are the streets 
at home. The 
boys buy fire- 
crackers and tin 
horns, and on 
Christmas eve fill the air with their din. Christ- 
mas day has sunshine and flowers, and perhaps a shower 
and rainbow. m 

The church bells ring out their merry peals, and peo- 
ple hasten through the streets to the churches, where 
they listen to the old, old story and to Christmas carols. 




Hawaiian Lady's Riding Costume. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



53 



On the eve of a holiday, it is customary for compa- 
nies of natives to go from house to house serenading. 

CHILD LIFE. 

If beautiful surroundings and a perfect climate were 
all that children needed to make them healthy and 
happy, the children of Hawaii would be very fortunate 
indeed. 

The beauty of ever-blooming flowers, of green fields 
and forests, of 
sunny skies, and 
of ever-changing 
seas, is constantly 
before them. 

But Hawaiian 
mothers and 
fathers are 
" happy-go-lucky," 
careless, and pleas- 
ure loving, and 
children are not 
cared for as they 
should be. 

Often it is the 
father who is the 
nurse, and who 
prepares the food 
for the family. 
The mother likes 
better to make garlands of flowers to sell or to adorn her- 
self with, and to go riding and visiting. 

One can not tell from the name of a Hawaiian child 




Hawaiian High School Pupil. 



54 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 




whether it is a boy or a girl. The names of the children 
are often changed, and many have several names. 

We see many pretty faces among the children, who 
are usually good-natured. They chatter, chatter with- 
out ceasing, but their voices are soft and pleasant. 

These children are remark- 
able swimmers. They swim 
before they walk. They are as 
much at home among the waves 
as on land, and almost live in 
the water. 

When school is out, the young 
people of all sizes and ages make 
for the water. When it is pos- 
sible, they swim to and from 
school instead of walking, carry- 
ing their clothes in one hand 
and paddling with the other. 

Both girls and boys can ride the waves on boards or 
logs, usually standing upright. The surf rolls high, 
and the waves give to the logs the motion of a rocking- 
horse. 

The children scream with delight and merriment, and 
chase each other through the water, diving about as 
swiftly and easily as ducks. 

Hawaiian children are very careful of their clothes, 
which are apt to be bright in color, if few. Only the 
babies in Hawaii wear many clothes. 

The children are always clean. Though they eat 
with their fingers and use no knives or forks, they 
never fail to wash their hands after a meal. Even the 
babies go to the brook or to the gourd or calabash used 



Hawaiian Schoolboy. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



55 



as a wash basin, and wash their mussy little hands after 
eating poi. 

All the children know how to ride, and ride fearlessly 
and well. Almost every child has a pony, and he will 
not walk anywhere if it is possible to ride. 

There are two things which every Hawaiian child 
loves — flowers and pets. Many happy hours are spent 
in gathering flowers and weaving them into garlands, 
which are worn about the neck or on the hat. 

Every man, woman, and child has a pet of some kind, 
often a pig. This little animal is frequently seen cud- 
dled up in the arms of a child, or following it about, as 
a pet dog or cat might. 

One of the young people's pastimes interests us very 
much. This is stilt walking. They not only walk on 
stilts, but they dance on stilts in a way that is both 
graceful and marvelous. 

A game of ball played by Hawaiian children is a fas- 
cinating thing to watch. They throw up balls and 
catch them, not in their hands, but on the end of a 
pointed stick. 

The Hawaiian children are usually good musicians 
and sweet singers. They all dance, and many of them 
are professional dancers. 

Sometimes they sing as they dance. Sometimes they 
preface or end their dance with a song. 

Though inclined to be indolent, they are quite will- 
ing to go to school, and a truant officer is not often 
needed. They study well and learn readily. 

They write, draw, and paint better than American 
children do. They copy almost perfectly anything 
that is given them. They like stories, and can tell 



56 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



you all about the brownies. Indeed, this country was 
the original home of the brownies, though they are not 
at all like those which Mr. Cox describes. 

These brownies were the grandchildren of the Ha- 
waiian Noah, and lived in the country before the pres- 
ent natives did. 

When this larger, stronger race came to the islands, 
the brownies took refuge in the mountains and hid 
in the dense forests. They are invisible to everyone 
except their own descendants, of whom there are a 
few yet living. But others can hear the hum of their 
voices. 

They are hard-working little fellows, and whatever 
work they do must be finished in one night. Their 
motto is, " In one night, and by dawn it is finished." 

In this respect they differ from the Hawaiians whom 
we know. They love to dream away the hours and 
put off all work until to-morrow. 

HOW THE PEOPLE TRAVEL ABOUT. 

Travelers and mail are carried over the islands by 
means of stage routes, much like those used in our 
Western States. 

The houses along the stage routes have boxes on a 
post to receive mail. Where there is no box the driver 
throws the mail on the ground and blows a blast on his 
bugle to attract the attention of the residents. 

The roads in the city of Honolulu are kept clean and 
in good order by prisoners, but outside the towns there 
are few good roads. These country roads are mere 
paths or trails. 

Most of the long journeys about the islands are made 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 57 



on horseback unless one can go in boats. So every 
tourist who comes to Hawaii must learn how to 
ride. 

The horses are sure-footed, sturdy little beasts, and 
make their way carefully over the steep mountains and 
among the rocks. 

In the valleys we sometimes see natives riding on 
bullocks. The bullocks are saddled and bridled like 
horses, and travel faster than one would think possible 
for such clumsy beasts. 

Near the cane fields we often meet caits drawn by a 
dozen or more cattle, driven by Japanese. 

One of the curious sights of the country is the mode 
of transporting lumber over the mountains on pack- 
mules. 

They have pack-saddles resembling sawbucks, with 
sticks of wood extending across. The lumber is tied 
to these. Two mules go tandem fashion, and carry 
three or four hundred feet of lumber over mountain 
tops which no wagon can cross. 

The lumber for all the houses built on the mountain 
sides has been transported in this way. The mules are 
sure footed and make their way safely along narrow, 
stony ledges, where it is dangerous for a human being 
to walk. 

Honolulu has a system of street or tram cars, drawn 
by mules or horses. The natives patronize these liber- 
ally, but the Americans and other foreigners prefer to 
use hacks and bicycles. These can be hired by the 
hour, day, week, or month. 

A railroad is being built around the Island of Oahu, 
and is now nearly completed. A trip on this road is 



58 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 

very attractive, for the climate is just tropical enough 
to keep us from walking much. 

Leaving Honolulu we pass through rice fields and 
skirt the inland waters of Pearl Harbor. The wonder- 
ful tropical vegetation claims our attention on this ride. 
The fronds of the coccanuts and other palms, and the 




The New Railroad on Oahu Island. 



leaves of the banana and alligator pear almost brush 
the car roof. 

A ride of a dozen miles brings us to the pretty village 
of Wai-me'-a, noted as the place where Captain Cook 
first anchored when he visited the islands. 

This place was used as a coaling station by the 
United States before Hawaii was annexed to our country. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



59 



These stations are very necessary ; for many ocean 
islands lie so far from continents that an immense 
amount of coal is consumed during a voyage. Most 
ships could not carry enough to supply the furnaces to 
heat the boilers for a month's voyage. 

TRIPS AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

Being of a sociable disposition, the Hawaiians are 
fond of visiting their friends on their own or some other 
island. Native boats, therefore, are found everywhere ; 
but it requires great skill to handle these as many of 
the landing places are quite dangerous. Some of the 
wealthier residents have yachts or launches, and fre- 
quently make excursions in these along the coast, or 
from island to island. 

The steamboat companies have lines of boats which 
run between the islands, with regular stopping places. 
We shall now take advantage of these and visit some 
of the most interesting points in the little ocean 
republic. 

THE LEPER COLONY. 

Twenty-five miles southeast of Oahu is the island of 
Molokai, the home of the lepers. A steamer from 
Honolulu visits this island twice each year, carrying 
mail and passengers who have secured a permit from 
the government physicians. 

When leprosy appeared among the people and began 
to spread rapidly, the king and others in authority 
began to consider ways and means of checking it. No 
cure for leprosy has been found, though many physi- 
cians have given years of careful study to the disease. 



6o A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



It was finally decided to banish all lepers to Molokai, 
and a site on that island containing three thousand 
acres was bought by the government. 

To this place all lepers are sent. They are forbid- 
den to leave or return to their homes. Here they live, 
separated from the rest of the world, and allowed only 
the freedom of a peninsula surrounded on three sides by 
the sea and on the other by a steep precipice over two 
thousand feet in height. 

The sea is so rough around the isthmus that the 
lepers can not swim through it. At times even the 
boats can not land. 

There is a house on Molokai, which is reserved for 
visitors and guests. No leper is ever permitted to 
approach it, though it is in the midst of their village. 

This house is used by the Board of Health, by tour- 
ists, and by those who wish to visit their friends among 
the lepers. 

The lepers are always very glad to welcome visitors, 
and look forward with eagerness to the time when the 
boat will bring them news from friends whom they are 
not permitted to live with. 

But they are not altogether unhappy. The disease 
from which they suffer is not very painful, and they go 
about and enjoy themselves very much as other peo- 
ple do. 

They have horses and ride about the island ; they 
swim, bathe, and fish in the sea ; gather flowers and 
make wreaths ; attend church, and listen to the music 
of their band. 

The government provides the lepers with houses, 
food, and clothing. They have hospitals, physicians, 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 6 1 

and nurses for the sick ; schools and churches, teach- 
ers and ministers. There are also missionaries on the 
island who have left their homes to live among lepers 
and become lepers themselves for the purpose of Chris- 
tianizing them. 

FATHER DAMIEN. 



Among these noble men was Father Joseph Damien, 
a Roman Catholic priest. He left his home in Bel- 

^*£< ass*... 




Leper Settlement on Moeokai Island. 



gium when a very young man, to do missionary work 
in the isles of the Pacific. 

At this time there was no minister on the island of 
Molokai. No one cared to remain there any length 
of time for fear of contracting leprosy. 

When Father Damien heard of the need of a mis- 
sionary for the lepers, he decided at once to go, and 



62 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAli. 



spend His life among them. His life was a very hard 
one. He scarcely took time to eat or sleep. He had 
no house to live in, so he was obliged to build one. He 
had no church in which to preach. He built this also. 

He was obliged 
to be a carpenter, 
a teacher, a doctor, 
and a nurse, as 
well as a preacher. 
But he was very 
happy to be of so 
much service t o 
these people with- 
out hope of cure, 
and he worked 
away quite con- 
tentedly. 

His friends 
feared that he, too, 
would become a 
leper, if he con- 
tinued among 
them, and begged 
him to give up his 
work. 

He would not consent, and preferred to yield up his 
life rather than give up his beloved work. For twelve 
years he worked faithfully and lovingly, and then he, 
too, became a leper. 

Other priests and ministers, encouraged by Father 
Damien's example, went to Molokai to help better the 
condition of the people. When Father Damien died, 




Father Joseph Damien. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 63 



after sixteen years' service, these missionaries took up 
his work. 

The people throughout the world had heard of the 
good deeds of this heroic priest, and sent him a number 
of beautiful presents to cheer his last days. 

After his death the people of England erected a 
monument to his memory. 

THE ISLAND OF MAUI. 

Near Molokai is the island of Maui, which we will 
visit in order to see Haleakala (Ha-la-a-ka-la), the larg- 
est extinct volcano in the world. 

Maui, the second in size of the Hawaiian Islands, 
consists of two large areas united by an isthmus about 
eight miles wide. We land at Lahaina, a town on the 
west side of the smaller part of the island. 

From this place we drive to the valley of I-a-o. This 
valley is walled in by cliffs six thousand feet high in 
some places. These cliffs are covered with ferns and 
candlenut shrubs. In many places waterfalls tumble 
over the bluffs and into the valley below. 

We find the little towns of Maui very windy places. 
In the village of Kahului great heaps of sand are 
deposited in the streets by the sea, and everything is 
coated with dust constantly blowing off the land. 

Near the village of Wailuka are large sugar planta- 
tions which are reached by means of a small railway. 

A FAMOUS APPLE ORCHARD. 

Maui has an apple orchard which is said to be the 
largest in the world. It is worth going many miles to 
see. For miles it extends along the mountains and 
stretches to the sea. 



64 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



In the harvest season, from July to September, the 
trees are loaded with fruit — some of the largest trees 
bearing fifty bushels each. 

The natives and birds feast on this fruit for a few 
days, but most of it is left to decay. When ripe, it can 
not be kept more than four days. 

CRATER OF HALEAKALA. 

The trip to the volcano we find not an easy one. 
The road is rough, and as we ascend the mountain it 
grows very cold and blustery. We do not wonder at 
the cold when we are told that Haleakala is 10,000 feet 
above the level of the sea. 

The crater is eighteen miles around and two thou- 
sand feet deep. The floor of the volcano is rough and 
jagged with high cones here and there. 

But the lava that once boiled and seethed in this 
huge shell is now cold and hard, and only the color 
tells us of the fierce fire that once raged here. 
THE ISLAND OF HAWAII. 

Now let us journey over to another island, Hawaii, 
the largest of the group, and the one from which the 
islands take their name. 

Tourists rarely fail to visit this island, for it contains 
one of the wonders of the world — the great volcano 
Ki-lau-e-a. 

We take the steamer for Hilo, a town at the foot of 
the noted volcano. 

The boat takes us through the inland channels and 
keeps so close to the coast that the shores may be 
easily seen. 

A gleaming, sandy beach first appears; higher up 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



65 



gray rocks and stately palms; above that, miles of sugar 
cane; and further inland, the green coffee plantations. 

On one side towers Mauna Loa, covered with per- 
petual snows. On the other the smoking peak of 
Kilauea, burning with fire. 

The captain tells us that when this volcano is most 
active the flames may be seen one hundred miles out 
at sea, and that people miles away are able to read 
newspapers by the glow. 

We are told to carry our rain coats with us con- 
stantly in Hilo, for not a day passes that does not bring 
a shower . We find this to be true, but these rains do 
not last long. 

We spend the afternoon very pleasantly walking 
about the lovely little town, admiring the tropical 
foliage and the wonderful flower gardens. 

Hilo is the second town in size on the islands, and is 
the capital of the island of Hawaii. It has a popula- 
tion of five thousand, and is of commercial importance, 
being the principal port for the coffee and cocoanut 
trade. The soil of the island is very rich, and it leads 
in the production of coffee. There are also many 
sugar plantations in Hawaii. 

Coffee culture is becoming one of the leading indus- 
tries of the country. Much of the land used for this 
purpose is covered with a thick crust of lava. Holes 
are drilled in this lava and the cuttings or trees planted 
in them. They grow and thrive, too, without any 
further care. 

Two trees we find growing here which are both use- 
ful and ornamental. One of these is called the travel- 
er's palm, By breaking off a leaf we may get a good 



66 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



cup of water. The leaf stalks collect and hold the 
water from the rains. The leaves resemble those of 
the banana. 

The other notable tree is the papaya, or tropical 
pawpaw. It is grown as much for ornament as for its 

fruit, which clus- 



ters around the 
trunk, close up 
under the 
branches. 

The fruit is as 
large as a melon, 
and pigs and 
poultry are very 
fond of it. 

The tree ma- 
tures and bears 
fruit in eight or 
nine months after 
being planted as 
a seed. It yields 
ripe fruit every 
month for years. 

The unripe 
fruit contains a 
milky juice that 
renders quite tender any tough meat that is washed 
in it. 

Cocoanut Island, near Hilo, is another sight for eyes 
to feast upon. From this beautiful spot we get a view 
of Hilo and the country about that rewards us for our 
long journey. 




Traveler's Paem. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 67 

It is said that the cocoanuts here lie so thickly on 
the ground at times that one can not walk without 
stepping on them. Sometimes they drop from the 
trees and roll down the beach. The tide floats them to 
the mainland, where they are picked up by the natives. 

We also visit the little lagoon on the mainland near 




Papaya Tree. 



by, and see coral growing. We pick up lovely speci- 
mens with the stones upon which it has built in these 
shallow waters. 

A mile from Hilo we are shown one of the most 
attractive bits of natural scenery in all Hawaii, — Rain- 
bow Falls. The water, dashing over a precipice, 
produces a spray. This makes a beautiful rainbow 
whenever the sun shines. 



68 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



GREATEST VOLCANO IN THE WORLD. 

But we are impatient to be off for the volcano we 
have come so far to see. It is a drive of thirty miles 
from Hilo, but an excellent road takes us up the 
mountain. 

We start early in the morning, and noon finds us 
tired and quite ready to stop at the Halfway House, a 
little hotel built on the mountain for the convenience 
of tourists. 

Higher and higher we climb up the mountain, and 
cooler and cooler grows the air. We are glad of the 
extra wraps we have brought with us. 

Near the summit, a hotel called " The Volcano 
House" has been built. Here we procure guides to 
conduct us to points from which we may see the inte- 
rior of the crater without danger. 

We make arrangements to remain at the hotel over- 
night, as the most beautiful effect of the volcano can be 
secured after dark. 

About four o'clock in the afternoon we start for the 
pit of the volcano. We walk two miles over the floor 
of the crater before reaching the lakes of fire. 

We can see the flames and smoke, however, and hear 
the noise of the heaving, tossing waves of lava, even 
at this distance. (See Frontispiece.) 

The pit of Kilauea is nine miles in circumference 
and over eight hundred feet deep. The walks are per- 
pendicular with the exception of one place. Here we 
make our descent into the crater. 

The lava bed over which we walk was once a flowing 
sea of boiling lava. It is now broken up by fissures 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 69 



through which heat is issuing. It is necessary for our 
guide to keep a sharp lookout, as the lakes of lava are 
constantly changing. 

At a distance we see a lake throwing up fireworks 
thirty feet high. Lava, looking like balls of fire, rolls 
from it. 

The lake is about a thousand feet long and almost 
as wide, and around the edge is a rim of lava. Inside 
this rim hundreds of little fires are sending up smoke 
and flames. 

The lava, though boiling, does not flow over the rim, 
and we watch it without fear. 

Big bubbles form and break, and from them fires 
burst out. The crust separates into cakes and these 
sink. Flames — perfect fountains of fire — spring up- 
ward fifty feet into the air, and the whole lake is one 
boiling, leaping, hissing mass. 

We turn our faces to screen them from the great 
heat. Our shoes begin to get hot and shrivel up, and 
we slowly retreat. We are obliged to cover our mouths 
with our handkerchiefs to avoid being suffocated with 
the noxious gases. 

Our guide tells us that the lava is boiling under our 
very feet, just a little below the surface. 

After watching this wonderful sight for two hours or 
more, we return to the Volcano House. It is now dark, 
and we walk Indian file, each with a lantern. It is 
necessary to watch our footsteps closely. Great cracks 
in the earth make the walk a dangerous one. One 
step from the path might send us into one of these 
chasms. 

The natives formerly believed this to be the home of 



a little journey to Hawaii. 



Pele, the fire goddess. When she came down from her 
home, ruin followed in her footsteps. In order to 
secure her good will they made her offerings of fruit, 
of pigs, and of hens. 

If a volcano became unusually violent, the king 
would order a number of persons to be thrown into the 
crater to appease the anger of the terrible goddess who 
made her home in this " House of Everlasting Fire." 

We return to Hilo and finish our visit to this island 
by crossing to Kailua, on the western coast. It is one 
of the principal landings for the coasting trade. Here 
we take a steamer for the western islands of the archi- 
pelago by way of Honolulu. 

KAUAI ISLAND. 

Barking sands, — sounds rather odd, doesn't it ? But 
they certainly do bark. We both see and hear them. 
The Hawaiian stands before us with a bag of sand 
which, when tossed about, produces a sound very much 
like the bark of a dog. 

He tells us that the sand came from Kauai, " The 
Garden Isle." He also declares that the foliage and 
scenery of this island are wonderful ; as also the rain- 
bows seen here every day in the year. 

This interests us. We decide that we would like to 
see this place for ourselves, as it is only a day's trip 
from Honolulu. 

We find the barking sands about a dozen miles be- 
yond Waimea, at Mana. A line of low sand hills bor- , 
ders the beach here. As we walk over them, the sound 
of barking greets our ears. The cause of this is said to 
be the compression of air between the particles of sand. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 7 1 

And this is not the only wonder which Waimea pro- 
duces. We have read often, in stories of the desert, of 
the mirage, a natural curiosity which sometimes appears 
to travelers. But we never expected to see it for our- 
selves. 

Along the road near Waimea is a sandy tract that 
turns before our very eyes into a lake of glistening 
water. Trees seem to rise up out of the water, and 
horses and cattle appear 
to be feeding on grass 
below the water. 

It all looks so real 
and lifelike that we can 
not believe it a mirage. 
As we move toward the 
lake, however, it disap- 
pears, and in its place 
we find nothing but 
sand. 

There is an ostrich 
farm on this island, and 
we are fortunate in be- 
ing allowed to see . these 
curious birds in their 
own home. 

We next visit the 
Ko-u-la Falls of the 
Han-a-pe'-pe River. This river flows between walls 
almost perpendicular, and two thousand feet high. 

The falls are at the head of a gorge. Here the river 
takes a drop of three hundred feet and comes down with 
a terrific roar, filling the gorge with spray like mist. 




On the Ostrich Farm. 



72 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAXi. 

We do not find mnch else of interest on this island 
except the great fields of sugar and rice. 

THE ISLAND OF LEYSON. 



Leyson, the most westerly of the Hawaiian Islands, 
is quite small, containing not more than a hundred 
square miles. 




Sea Birds near Leyson Island, Hawaii. 



It is a desolate place, having no mountains, high ele- 
vations, or forests, and is valuable only because of its 
guano beds. 

It is interesting to us because it is a sea bird rookery. 
Sea birds, gulls, ducks, and frigate birds gather here by 
the millions, covering the ground completely for miles. 

These birds are not good for food and their feathers 
are of no account, so they are left undisturbed. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAli. 73 



They are very tame, and may be picked up in the 
hand. They gather on the railroad track in such large 
numbers that a man has to sit in front of the car, as it 
is being drawn by the mules, and push them out of the 
way with a stick. 

Their living they obtain from the sea. On the island 
they lay their eggs, hatch, and die by millions. Their 
decaying bones help to form the guano which is gath- 
ered and exported to other Hawaiian Islands and to 
the Pacific coast. Hundreds of tons are shipped away 
every year. 

At the rookery the birds lay eggs in such numbers 
that they are gathered in wheelbarrows, loaded on cars, 
and transferred to a ship. They are sent across the 
ocean for the manufacture of commercial albumin. 

The albumin is used for fixing colors in calico-print- 
ing, for clarifying liquids, and in some of the processes 
of photography. 




Loading Sea-Bird Eggs on Leyson Island. 




When Captain Cook came to Hawaii, the only ani- 
mals he found were dogs, swine, and mice. He brought 
goats with him ; later others introduced horses, cattle, 
and sheep. 

The natives were greatly delighted when horses were 
brought to the islands, and soon became fine and fear- 
less riders. 

On some of the islands wild pigs, dogs, goats, deer, 
cattle, turkeys, ducks, and pheasants may be found. 
Domestic animals are now very plentiful. 

Some of the small, uninhabited islands are used as 
grazing grounds for immense herds of cattle, which are 
cared for by native cowboys. 

Other small islands are given up entirely to sheep 
ranches. 

We find no snakes or poisonous insects in Hawaii. 
The bite of the centipede or scorpion is not dangerous, 
and no more importance is attached to it than to the 
sting of a bee. 

74 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 75 



There is a kind of bee in Hawaii, called the carpen- 
ter bee, which looks something like the bumblebee. It 
does not often sting, but it does a great deal of damage 
by boring or burrowing into wood. 

The ants in Hawaii are also considered a great pest. 
They dig among the roots of plants and trees and de- 
stroy them. 

They also bore their way through shingles of roofs 
and into timbers, and sometimes undermine houses. 
On this account slate or iron roofs are often used. 

Flies are scarce, and very few houses have screens at 
doors or windows. 

At first we are alarmed at the large spiders which we 
find in our rooms. The people tell us, however, that 
they are harmless and are allowed to remain in the bed- 
rooms as they feed on the mosquitoes which make life 
here uncomfortable. 

These small musicians are with us day and night. 
They meet us on our arrival, follow us through the day, 
and keep us from sleep with their music at night. 

The mosquito nets which cover the beds protect us 
at night ; but when day comes, other enterprising mem- 
bers of the same family appear. These day mosquitoes 
are large, striped insects, with particularly sharp, sting- 
ing tongues. 

Most of the cockroaches are two inches long and one 
inch wide. 

There are few birds in Hawaii, and those we see have 
very sober coats. Sometimes we hear strange noises 
in the attic at night, and are told that they come from 
the Mynah bird, perched on the roof. 

The same saucy bird comes to our window in the 



76 



A tlTTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



morning, sits on the window sill, and awakens ns with 
his war whoop. 

These birds are mischievous and thievish, like our 
crows, but look more like the robin. They are reddish 
brown, with long yellow legs and yellow rims around 
their eyes. 

They were brought from India to rid the country of 
caterpillars ; and now that they have done this work, 
they propose to enjoy themselves. 

The rats are very destructive to sugar cane, and 
gnaw down and destroy much more than they can use 
for food. 

In one day a rat catcher, with his band of terriers, can 
rid a place of rats, and the planters are glad to employ 
his services. 

Rats are very fond of cocoanuts as well as sugar 
cane, and often make their nests among the trees. 

The trunks of cocoanut trees are not straight, but 
lean in many directions ; so the rats find them easy to 
climb. 

They gnaw through the husk and shell, and eat the 
meat and drink the milk without danger from the rat 
catcher. 

At one place we notice an animal about as big as a 
rabbit. It has thick fur and a big bushy tail. The 
guide tells us that it is the mongoose, an animal that 
was brought to the island to destroy rats. 

The rats are afraid of the mongoose, but if caught, 
fight fiercely, and so the mongoose prefers to eat poul- 
try and eggs, which it can easily secure. It has proved 
so destructive in this way that it is considered a great 
nuisance. 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



77 



PLANT LIFE. 



Everywhere we go, we see little taro patches; and 
often we see men and women working in them, stand- 
ing up to their knees in water. These patches are 
very small; but we are told that an acre will supply a 
family with food for a year. 

Taro is the principal food plant of the island. It is 
a tuber, similar to the beet in size and form, but having 
a bluish tinge. 

The plant has no stalk, but has large, heart-shaped 
leaves which give to a taro patch 
the appearance of a pond of lilies 
without blossoms. 

The taro is a water plant. It 
is grown in beds of mud sur- 
rounded by earth, turf, or stone 
walls, upon which water flows from 
irrigating ditches. 

The taro is planted much as 
we plant potatoes, and then kept 
covered with water for a year or 
more. 

The leaves, when cooked, make 
a fine substitute for spinach. 
When raw, the tuber has a nutty flavor. The natives 
boil or bake it, and serve it as the potato is served. 

Poi, the favorite food of the natives, is made of taro. 
The taro is baked, pounded to a pulp, mixed with 
water, and strained through a coarse cloth. The poi 
tastes like buttermilk. 

When the poi is made, it is put into vessels, and set 




Taro Plant. 



78 A IylTTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII, 

in a cold place for a few days to ferment. After fer- 
mentation, it is considered ready for food. 

The method of eating poi is very simple. A large 
round bowl, sometimes as big as a bushel basket, or 
a calabash, is placed in the center of a mat on the 
ground. The family gather round it, and proceed to 
help themselves. 




Making Poi. 



The poi is eaten from the fingers, and a stranger 
finds it very difficult to learn the exact twist by which 
the liquid can be raised on two fingers to the mouth. 

As the preparation of poi is hard work, and as the 
Hawaiian is not fond of work, whenever able he em- 
ploys a Japanese servant to make his poi for him. 

The manufacture of poi is also carried on by steam 
power and with machinery for the sugar planters. 

Sometimes we see poi sold in the streets in cala- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 79 

bashes. The taro from which it is made is also carried 
about on poles by venders. 

Many of the white people now use this food, as it is 
wholesome and easily digested. 




A Taro Peddler. 
RICE FIELDS. 

Much of the rice we consume in the United States is 
brought from Hawaii. 

There are a great many Chinese here; and as rice is 
their principal and favorite food, they raise great quan- 
tities of it. 



80 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 

Much of the low, swampy land is used for this pur- 
pose, and these rice fields, with their plodding Chinese 
workmen and the curious-looking buffaloes they em- 
ploy as draft animals, interest us very much. 

White men will not, or can not, work in these fields ; 
for, in order to do this, it is necessary to stand in the 
water much of the time. 




Plowing Rick with Buffalo Ox. 



Rice is sown in water, with which it remains covered 
until about six inches high. The water is then drawn 
off and the rice transplanted. The roots must be kept 
under water from this time on for about six months, or 
until the plants have completed their growth. 

The Chinese workmen do not like modern machinery 
or new or improved ways of doing things. They pre- 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



8l 



fer to work just as their ancestors have done for hun- 
dreds and hundreds of years, even if it makes their 
work harder. 

They do not want wagons or railways to help carry 
home the rice. They prefer to walk to and from the 
fields, and carry the rice themselves. 

It is an odd sight to see them coming home during 
the harvest, laden with their sheaves or bundles. A 
bundle is hung on each end of a stick, and the stick 
balanced on their shoulders. Then a number of them 
start in a line, on a half run, for the thrashing floor. 




Enjoying His Sugar Cane. (See Page 82.) 



Sugar cane is the chief source of wealth of many 
Hawaiian people. Millions of dollars' worth of sugar 
are sent away from the islands every year. Most of 
this comes to our own country. 

Most tourists wish to visit the large sugar plantations 
in Hawaii, and we will do so, in order to compare them 
with our own, and with those we have seen in Cuba 
and Puerto Rico. 

Much of the fertile land is planted with sugar cane. 
It has proved a very profitable crop. There is no 
stated time for planting, cutting, or grinding here, and 
sometimes these all go on at the same time. 

On these plantations portable railways are used, as 
also the best plows, cultivators, and other machinery 
that can be obtained. 

Almost all the plantations have railroads, and some* 
times several plantations are connected by a single 
railroad. These transport laborers, machinery, and 
cane to or from the fields. 

On the small plantations the sugar is sent to the 
mills in carts drawn by horses or oxen. Sometimes the 
cane is carried to the mill in flumes. These are 
82 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 83 

wooden troughs on high tressles. The flumes are 
filled with water, and a slight incline toward the mill 
makes a current. The cane, placed in these, quickly 
floats down to the mill. 

The laborers in the cane fields are Japanese. They 
make better workmen than the natives, and work more 
cheaply. 

The planter gives them houses, fuel, and a doctor 
when they are sick. Near the plantations we see 
Japanese homes, with their pretty flower and vegetable 
gardens. Here they lead happy, contented lives, and 
we do not wonder that they prefer Hawaii to their own 
country. 

OTHER VEGETATION. 

We have spoken of Hawaii as a country of flowers, 
and yet we do not find flowers growing in abundance 
by the roadside and in the fields. 

Strange to say, most of the flowers are in the tree- 
tops. 

Here the oleanders are as big as trees, and the bego- 
nias grow in great clumps, with large, beautiful leaves. 

And there are whole hedges of the night-blooming 
cereus, that rare plant which we see at home only in 
hothouses. 

Many of the walls and buildings are covered with 
vines bearing gorgeous blossoms. 

Few of the plants and trees which add so much to the 
beauty of these islands are native to Hawaii. 

They have been brought from different parts of the 
world by missionaries and others who have made their 
homes here. 



84 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



Almost the only native trees are the cocoanut, the 
candlenut, and two or three others. The cocoanut 
grows near the shore, and never strays far from the salt 
water. It is as useful in Hawaii as in Puerto Rico. 
(See " Little Journey to Puerto Rico/' pages 70-73.) 

At one time the island was covered with sandalwood 
trees, but these have almost all been destroyed. The 
trees are small, but the wood is fragrant and highly 
valued by the Chinese. They use it to make boxes, 
fans, cabinets, and other pieces of furniture, which are 
often elaborately carved. 

The algeraba, though not a native tree, has proved 
itself a blessing to the Hawaiian Islands. It is the 
only tree aside from the palm that can take root in the 
lava-covered mountain sides. 

Its fine feathery leaves give a thick shade, its wood 
furnishes fuel, and it bears a pod of rich beans which 
are used for food for cattle. 

The lantana, with flowers of gold and vermilion, 
attracts our attention by its great loveliness. 

It grows everywhere, on the hills and in the valleys, 
and the people can not rid themselves of it. 

The bamboo, a giant grass, is quite common. The 
natives use its stems to prepare a substance from which 
they weave hats- — fine, white, and beautiful; also lovely 
mats and baskets. 

Along the edges of streams and on the sides of 
ravines clumps of ginger plants ten or fifteen feet high 
are growing. Their heads are crowned with fragrant, 
creamy, or wax-like flowers. The ginger plant blos- 
soms are much used by the natives in making their 
garlands. Think of ferns growing twenty or thirty 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 85 



feet high! Among the ferns in the forest which we 
notice especially is one called the Bird's Nest Fern. 
Its leaves grow from the juncture of the bough with 
the tree, and resemble a bird's nest, or pot of green 
feathers. 

The bark of this fern is over six inches thick, and is 
often cut into long strips and used for making steps 
and paths. 

From another fern a soft fuzz is taken and used to 
stuff bedding. It is as warm as feathers. 

We notice a peculiar bitter-sweet fragrance in the air, 
and our guide points out the tree from which it comes — 
the screw palm. The na- 
tives use the leaves of this 
tree to make mats, hats, 
and grass houses. 

The fruit looks like 
pineapples. From it a 
delicious little nut is ob- 
tained. The natives also 
use sections of the fruit 
strung together for neck- 
laces. 

A mango tree is beau- 
tiful and attractive. It 
grows as large as the 

oak, and has a rich and glossy foliage. The fruit 
is shaped something like a short, thick cucumber, 
and is as large as a large pear. It has a thick, tough 
skin, and a delicious, juicy pulp. When ripe, it 
is golden in color. A tree often bears a hundred bushels 
of mangoes. 




86 A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



The alligator pear grows on a tree with laurel-like 
leaves, from seventy to seventy-five feet high. The 
fruit is like a huge pear with a smooth, green skin, 
which turns brown if allowed to hang too long. 

CONCLUSION. 

What shall we buy to take home as mementoes of 
our visit? 

While we have been thinking about this, the natives 




Offering Us Souvenirs of Hawaii. 



have also been thinking. They know our ship sails 
to-morrow, and they are coming up the steps of the hotel 
with the very things we wish. 

They spread them about on the veranda for us to 
make our selections. There are fans and mats made 



A LITTLE JOURNEY TO HAWAII. 



87 



of dried grasses ; walking sticks with carved wooden 
figures ; baskets, bags, beadwork, belts made of seeds, 
lace mats, and necklaces of the candle tree beads and 
kukui nuts. 

We make our selections, and pay for them. The 
sellers are pleased, and so are we. 

And now we must leave this " Paradise of the Pacific,' } 
these " Rainbow Islands," with their fountains of mol- 
ten lava, their coffee, sugar, and rice fields, their sur- 
rounding green hills and famous " singing sands." 

It is hard to sail away from these balmy, beautiful 
shores, but the ship gong sounds its warning, and we 
leave our new-made friends at the wharf with warm- 
hearted farewells. 

" Aloha! " " Aloha ! " call soft voices from every side. 
The band stationed at the wharf plays sad, sweet airs. 
These linger in our ears long after the ship has left 
the harbor. 

Friends have crowned us with offerings of flowers 
and wreaths of garlands as the last good-by w r as said. 

Will our visit to the Philippines be as delightful ? we 
wonder. Will we leave those islands with as much 
reluctance as we leave Hawaii ? Next month will tell. 



PRONOUNCING VOCABULARY. 



Aloha nui 

coral 

guava 

Hawaii 

Haupu 

Hilo . 

holoku , 

Honolulu . 

Kilauea 

Kalakaua . 

Kamehameha 

K ah eke 

Kauai 

le'i . 

luau 

lanai 

Maui 

Niihau 

Oahu 

poi 

pina . 

Pae 

Pele 

scorpion 

taro 

tarantula . 
Waikiki 



a-15'ha nu-6 

k5r'al 

gua'va' 

Hah-wi'e 

How'-poo 

Hee'-lO 

ho-lo'-ku 

Ho'-nO-loo'-lOTS 

Kee-low-a'-a 

Ka-la-kow'-ah 

Ka-me'-ha-me'-ha 

Kah-hee-kee 

Kaw-wi or Kow-t-e" 

lay 

loo-a'55 

law ni 

Mow-ee 

Nee-ee-how' 

O-wSh'-hOO 

po'eg 

pe'-na' 

Pa'e 

Pa'-le or Pe'-le 
skor'-pi on 
ta"rO or ta'-ro 
ta-ran'-ttl-la 
Wy-kee-kee 



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